Day 77: Istanbul, September 16th.

A new journal for the last week of my big cycling trip. The other one lasted, to the page, the entirety of my cycle. This one will contain my holiday in Istanbul, and hopefully more to come in the future. I bought this book from Hüseyin – he’s a lovely guy.

I woke up around 9, hungover from the night before, but the blaring of horns and of the snoring guy on the bed next to me kept me awake. I got up, showered (for a change), and went down to breakfast. It was typical hostel fare – bread, fruit, cheese and spreads etc. I also got a much appreciated tea.

As I ate an Israeli girl sat next to me and we chatted. She’s here for the weekend over Israeli new year. I (hopefully) persuaded her to join me for the hostel BBQ this evening. After I finished breakfast I went and got ready to go out. I chatted to a Morrocan (Ahmed?) in my room for a while, then some of the French people came in. I had planned to spend the day alone, but soon after leaving I changed my mind and decided to join them in visiting Topkepi palace.

First, we went and got food, as they’d missed breakfast. I got a great donër kebab, and orange juice. After that we wondered up to the palace where we met Lana, who’d failed to get into the Hagia Sophia. We paid 950TL for the palace (around £30!). It was, however, super cool.

Endless opulent, well patterned rooms full of ornate clothing, clocks, weapons (the most incredible I’ve ever seen – axes, swords, daggers – all encrusted with gems or inlaid with gold). Then we saw holy Islamic relics – beard hairs and footprints of Mohammad, along with his belongings – sandals, weapons, teeth – and those of Abu Bakr and Fatima (supposedly) – super cool.

We also saw so many gems I became immune to their charm – even that of the third largest diamond in the world. I saw Asia across the water. Mental.

Then we visited the Harem section which became more ornate as it went on. Lucky sultan. After that we left the palace and split off. Louis (the brit) went home, the Canadian went for coffee, and the French people went to a train station. As for me, I went to find an English book and a journal. On the way I was persuaded to buy 1kg of Turkish delight for almost £15. Whoops. At least the cashier complimented my eyes.

In the shop, as I was perusing, I met the owner, Hüseyin. He offered me apple. I accepted. He offered me whiskey. I accepted. What followed was an hour of drinking – including more alcohol being purchased, meeting his friends – Muhammad even invited me to dinner but I had to decline - and listening to tunes as we spoke in barely comprehensible English and Turkish. Drink makes friends of us all.

Hüseyin praised Attaturk, and told me he’d worked in the shop for 43 years, since he was 18, and now owned it. I had a lovely time. An hour or so later I bought the book and left, having added him on insta.

I stopped in café where I got some ice tea and a very expensive Kinefe (good, but not as good as in Albania) and wrote this with a borrowed pen.

***

I went back to the hostel for the BBQ. There were a few people who joined me. The BBQ was okay, but not worth the money. However, they then brought in a belly dancer as entertainment. I was sat right at the front, right in the line of fire. I enjoyed it to be honest. She got me up to dance with her twice. Lucky I was quite drunk.

Others danced too. It was a good time. I did, however, feel too uncomfortable to put money in her bra strap as others were. You’d never think I was in a muslim country.

After that a few of us – an American (Rob), an Australian, a French girl (Celine), the Swiss guy and the Kazakh all decided to go out. We got a taxi to near Galata and went to a bar with live music and free shots, followed by one called Fred, where we danced. I got very drunk.

I chatted for a long time with the Kazakh at the end of the night about the state of his country – not good. After that we waited for a taxi home. I climbed a building and we all did some pull ups on a street sign. Later, as we were leaving, we saw locals doing the same. We got the taxi to a kebab place, which was closed.

Eventually we found one open – but it was a full on restaurant. At 4am I found myself up and sat at a table waiting for food. It was alright when it arrived. I’d have preferred a take away. Eventually we got home and I dropped right off to sleep.

Video of this day