Day 73: Camping Natura to Alexanropolis, September 12th.

 Up at 8. I bought a croissant and an ice cream sandwich from the shop, downloaded a few audiobooks and packed. I paid my bill as I checked out – lesson learned! – and set off around 9:30. Today was a good day! The cycling was mostly easy and mostly beautiful.

At first I cycled through Nestos National park. Smooth causeways took me through vast lagoons and wetlands populated by flamingos. Around 10 I stopped to explore a couple of monasteries built on one of the lakes and linked by a wooden walkway. It felt almost like Lake Titicaca.

The wetlands eventually gave way to cotton fields. At one point I stopped and picked some cotton by the side of the road. It’s amazing how it grows fully formed. It doesn’t feel real. I passed through a few small villages in the hills, rarely chased by dogs.

Soon after this the road began running parallel to the motorway. Ahead of my I saw another cyclist, shirtless and bronzed, evidently heading the same direction. Eventually we came alongside one another. He was a German named Zebastian. He’s cycling to Istanbul too, then flying to Nepal and carrying on to Indonesia!

We chatted for a while, but he was older and more laden than me and eventually had to stop for a rest. I sped off. I might see him again at the campsite. He’s going to the same place.

I cycled on up scrubby brown rocky hills until suddenly I was speeding towards the sea. A friendly farmer kept his many dogs back as I passed. I reached the coast and took a stoney path past endless beautiful beaches. I also passed through a huge section scorched bare by wildfire, with the pleasant(ish) stench of woodsmoke still in the air. In the midst of this was the ruins of a temple to Apollo.

 I’d finished Lustrum that morning and was now listening to the less relevant, but still good, Planet of the Apes.

I rejoined the main road and followed it all the way to the municipal campsite in Alexandroupolis, reaching it around 16:20. Some snacks and a tent erection later I went for a short swim in the sea, a quick read on the beach, a warm shower, and a 20 min walk to the centre, where I got my last gyros of Greece. They were somewhat ruined by the presence of ketchup and mustard, but only cost three euros eighty. I ate them by the coast. C messaged me today to tell me to keep safe due to all the natural disasters about. That was nice

Now I’m sat watching the edge of the sunset over the sea in a café with a cold chocolate. So far, today has been a good day. Hopefully Turkey tomorrow!

***

I walked and scrambled back to the campsite along the beach. Once there I sat and ate a Toblerone and drank a beer to see off Greece. Then I went to bed.

Video of this day