Day 30: Near Oltari to Gračac, July 31st. 164km

I had set an alarm for 5:30. I woke, but found myself so comfortable and tired that I put it off by degrees until 8ish. By 9 I was up, packed, and taking a last look at the view, on my way. The first 9km or so was mostly downhill, and I found myself at the grill I had seen on the map yesterday. They’re not doing food. I might have cried. Instead I got a tea, charged some stuff, (though I seem to have lost my lightning cable), and wrote this. There appears to be a shop nearby. Perhaps that will feed me.

***

The shop fed me. I bought many, many snacks. I also left my sunglasses, which I had to go back for. The road led down to a river path. The river was curious. It ran fast but was very clear indeed. I followed this for a while, then climbed back up into the hills past a railway track which had appeared to be a dam. I cycled a long way today – 3.5 stages of the route according to the GPX I downloaded. Much of it was relatively flat or even downhill sloping, which explains it.

Wooded and white stoned hills loomed up and around me most of the day. I spent hours cycling through valleys and farmland filled with hay, sheep, horses and barking dogs. Some ran after me behind fences, some only for a short while. Others pursued for half a km, and came close to catching up. I pedalled fast. 

At one point I also encountered a group of cattle being driven down the road, one of which went crazy and started snorting and moaning as it saw me stopped on the road. Luckily it sauntered off into a field, the farmhand chuckling at my scared face. A little way up the road I was yelled at in greeting by a farmers family outside his house. All these experiences compounded to make me uncomfortable with spending another night wild camping in these cultivated parts. After my third section was finished I noticed the next one went very near a campsite. I resolved to cycle the extra 20km to it, and got there at 7:30ish. I set up my tent, went for a quick dip in the pool, took a much needed shower, then wondered over to a restaurant where I got a beer, grilled meat and chips, and this pen. The meal and beer were very welcome indeed.

Spot check on my current state. My legs are finally tiring. My rear end aches when I sit on the saddle, which is now held together by climbing tape, me having ripped it when squeezing out water from various thunderstorms. Part of the bell on the bike has broken off, and I must hit it with my key to get it to work. Both my spare inner tubes are still punctured, my front brakes still squeak, my front wheel is held on by an old, quick release skewer, and I am having to wear gloves because my hands are losing feeling. However, aside from these niggling issues, all is good.

Greece seems both near and far away. I hope I make it in time.

Video of this day