Day 25: Trieste to Near Novigrad, July 26th.

Day 25 (part 1): Trieste to Spodnje.

A difficult morning followed by a decent evening. I was up at 8:30ish and had a huge breakfast with Guilia’s mother, though she didn’t eat much and took the dog for a walk halfway through. I knew she was on a schedule so, even though I noticed when I got my bike that my tyre was deflating, I let myself get led out at 9:30. I said goodbye then freewheeled down to a small square. After assessing my options for a while I decided to go to a nearby bar, get a coke and use the bathroom sink to fix my puncture. I found it. Fantastic news!

I fixed it as I drank my coke, then returned to the square. There I fixed my other inner tube. Halfway through an old Italian man approached and chatted to me for about 15 mins in Italian, giving me instruction via gesture and my limited understanding of Spanish. It was a nice interaction, and he was mostly useful. I had found a huge thorn sticking into my tyre and, having removed it, I felt confident the issue was fixed - the tyre was “repaired”. Nope.

I set out around 11. The route on my app was terrible and I had to find my own way.

Country 7: Slovenia

Day 25 (part 2): Spodnje to Plovanija

I reached Slovenia at 12:30, but my sense of achievement was tempered by the realisation that my tyre was still deflating, possibly even faster than before. Just inside Slovenia I stopped and removed the wheel again. I checked again inside the tyre but could see nothing. I looked up the nearest bike shop, put back on the better inner tube, and made my way there. It was in a kind of mall complex. Lucky I was so near it. The second shop I checked had the tube I needed. I set up in some shade and then rechecked the tyre. There it was, another tiny, pesky thorn. I dug it out. On closer examination I found 10-15 embedded in the outer tyre. I dug them all out. Problem solved at last!

I put the wheel back on. I tightened the spindle. Crack. The spindle snapped off in my hand. I had to laugh. Fuck’s sake. I left my bike upside down and unsecured, and my luggage where it was and went back to the shop. They did not have the spindle. Fuck’s sake! They indicated another shop 600m away. I ran there, getting stopped by a fence at one point, whereupon I swore. I finally made it. “No we don’t have it”. I almost broke down. “We have a quick release version.” Yes. Yes. Give it to me. They gave it to me at the guessed price of 3 euros! As I left the guy asked me about my trip so far, and where I was going. We chatted for a bit, then I returned to my bike [He was amazed and asked to see the bike, but gave up when I told him it was around the corner and upside down]. As I fixed it for hopefully the final time (at least today) I called dad and chatted to him and mum. That was nice.

The repairs held as I cycled through the sadly short-lived green countryside, coastline and impressive tunnels of Slovenia. By the time I reached Croatia it was 5:20. Very late.

Country 8: Croatia

Day 25 (part 3): Plovanija to Near Novigrad.

I cycled unnecessarily up a steep and busy road, then imported my E8 route for Croatia, went back down the hill and along the quieter roads of the coast. The water is so blue. The issue is if I continue to follow this route it will add at least 2 days to my journey, and I’m not sure I can spare them. I have to decide whether I can risk cutting across country tomorrow… I think I will. The time saved will be worth 1 bad day and some missed experiences, right?

I followed the coast path (mostly) until 8 where I stopped at a campsite by the coast. The guy told me to set up a tent by the beach and not bother paying. “one night, you are young, tomorrow… just go”. Sounds good to me!

I set up by the coast in quite a compact but sheltered spot under a pine tree. I watched the sun set over the sea, and the inevitable thunderstorm which had been threatening all day gather in the distance. I tried to take a shower but I’ve lost my soap again, and you have to pay. Maybe later. Instead I got a beer and ordered some fish (which I’m still waiting for) from a restaurant inside the campsite. The storm has arrived and I’m sat outside under an umbrella, sheltering from rain which grows ever heavier as I write [I later moved inside to shelter and to charge stuff]. I hope my tent isn’t leaking!

Video of this day